Saturday, May 3, 2014

Fashion History from the Black Prospective


         My mother and all the women in my family were fashion designers, although they were labeled as ‘dressmakers.’ Their talent and creativity was not unusual in the black community. Black women designed beautiful clothes out of scraps, flour sacks, and fabrics of many sources.  They did not hire people to make their clothes, they were the ones hired. 

        When I was a child, most Black women sewed, it was so common that as a talent the ability to sew was not valued or respected. However, there were some designers who broke the mold and commanded the respect they deserved. I want to call them to your attention; therefore, I will be posting several articles to reveal some of this unknown history.

         I am a lifelong member of NAFAD (National Association of Fashion and Accessory Designers) an organization founded in New York city in 1949 by Jeanetta Welsh Brown, executive secretary National Council of Negro Women IInc., under the auspices of Mary Mcleod Bethune to draw attention to the Black Designers and give them more influence in the world of fashion.

It was not until the early 19th century that black women began to be recognized as fashion designers in the full sense of creating personal designs. Thanks to Elizabeth Keckly, Francis Criss, Ann Lowe and Zelda Wynn Valdes, African-American women began to gain recognition for their skill as fashion designers. Ms. Bethune understood the need for designers to be organized, and Zelda Wynn Valdes played an integral role in the formation of the National Association of Fashion and Accessory Designers. (NAFAD)

You might not know Zelda Valdes’ name, but you will know her work…

Fashion legend Zelda Wynn Valdes (1905 – 2001) was the first black designer and costumer to open her own shop, which was the first black-owned business on Broadway in 1948. Zelda Wynn Valdes died at the age of 96 on Sept. 26, 2001, but her lasting contributions to fashion will live on forever. 

During the rise in her professional career she caught the attention of Hugh Hefner, who hired her to design the first Playboy Bunny costumes in the 1950s… At 65, when most others were retiring, Arthur Mitchell, creator of the first black ballet company, asked her to design the uniforms for the Dance Theatre of Harlem.


Zelda Wynn Valdes 1905 - 2001

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